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New York Fashion Week: Highlights from the Spring-Summer 2025 runways

Olympic gymnast Jordan Chiles made her runway debut at Kim Shui on Saturday. John Lamparski/Getty Images

Olympic gymnast Jordan Chiles made her runway debut at Kim Shui on Saturday. John Lamparski/Getty Images

CNN — Over the past few days in New York City — and a little further afield, on Long Island — mainstay brands like Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger looked to reinvigorate the classics, while labels including Alaïa and Off-White, who typically show in Paris, crossed the pond to define what American fashion means to them.

New York Fashion Week, which formally kicks off fashion month, has found itself at a crossroads in recent seasons as its counterparts in Milan and Paris have maintained dominance on the industry’s schedule with sought-after shows and splashy celebrity guest lists. But that doesn’t mean the city has been without its A-listers — especially since the weeklong event has coincided with the U.S. Open, bringing out plenty of stars to sit both by the court and the catwalk.

Ralph Lauren got things started with an off-schedule Hamptons fête on Thursday, recreating its iconic Polo Bar for guests including First Lady Jill Biden, singer Usher, and actors Jude Law, Tom Hiddleston and Naomi Watts. At the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum the following night, Alaïa reunited supermodels Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Amber Valletta and Stephanie Seymour in the audience while Kendall Jenner led the models’ procession around the art museum’s famed spiraling architecture — though Rihanna’s glittering appearance in a crystal mesh ensemble by the French luxury house was the biggest surprise of the evening.

Off-White also had no shortage of famous faces on Sunday to see creative director Ib Kamara stage the label’s first-ever New York runway, drawing singers Zayn Malik, Mary J. Blige and Camila Cabello and model Alessandra Ambrosio, to waterfront basketball courts in Brooklyn. Also in attendance was US Olympic water poloist Ashleigh Johnson — with rapper Flavor Flav, of course, who became a sponsor of her team this year — and 2024 Olympic all-around gymnastics gold medalist Sunisa Lee.

 

Usher and first lady Jill Biden enjoyed Ralph Lauren’s Bridgehampton affair.
Usher and first lady Jill Biden enjoyed Ralph Lauren’s Bridgehampton affair. Theo Wargo/Getty Images

 

 

Rihanna arrived at the Guggenheim to see Alaïa’s long-awaited return to New York under the creative direction of Pieter Mulier.
Rihanna arrived at the Guggenheim to see Alaïa’s long-awaited return to New York under the creative direction of Pieter Mulier. Gotham/GC Images/Getty Images

 

Tommy Hilfiger and Brooke Shields caught up just before Hilfiger’s show that took place inside of a decommissioned Staten Island Ferry. 
Gilbert Flores/WWD/Getty Images

But Olympians haven’t just been on the guest list this week — they’ve made surprise runway debuts as well. Another one of the gymnastics “Golden Girls,” Jordan Chiles, traded the balance beam for the catwalk at Kim Shui, wearing a floral silk leotard-style outfit, finished with a fluttering cape, while sprinter Noah Lyles took a more leisurely pace at Willy Chavarria’s show in white athletic shorts and armbands emblazoned with “América,” the name the designer chose for a show about the immigrant perspective of the American Dream.

Chavarria’s latest collection — which featured baggy, belted khakis; crisp ties and lapels; and utility menswear skirts, followed by a separate, new sportswear line with Adidas — was set against the backdrop of the American flag and began with a performance of the classic Spanish love song “Querida.” (Guests also received small booklets from the American Civil Liberties Union printed with the full US Constitution, a reminder of the country’s founding ideals.)

 

Olympian Noah Lyles and Willy Chavarria backstage at the Wall Street venue that hosted “América.”
Olympian Noah Lyles and Willy Chavarria backstage at the Wall Street venue that hosted “América.” Nina Westervelt/WWD/Getty Images
 

It was far from the only show that expressed a sense of political urgency ahead of the 2024 election. The surrealist label Area, celebrating its 10th anniversary, partnered with Tinder to promote (and donate to) the national abortion rights campaign Bans Off Our Bodies, showing a collection of handprints and fingerprints printed, stitched and etched on the garments.

“We really think about and reflect on what is going on in the world and put that back into our clothes,” Area creative director Piotrek Panszczyk told CNN backstage.

The Nepali American designer Prabal Gurung, too, had a message, but one of hope. Galvanized by Vice President Kamala Harris’ presidential campaign, Gurung wrote in the show notes that he wanted “create a collection that reflects “a powerful affirmation of matriarchy, femininity and the future.” Gurung’s collection of trailing neck scarves, sheer bustiers and hand-draped sari pants was full of movement on a breezy day near City Hall — and included a seemingly tongue-in-cheek reference to Harris with an embroidered coconut tree mini dress.

“I’ve always believed in power of women, of feminine-leaning ideas,” Gurung told CNN just before the show. “I’ve always believed that they saved me… and I know they can save the world.”

Scroll down to see this season’s runway highlights, updated throughout the week.

 

Paris Hilton invited Megan Thee Stallion for a performance at Hilton’s album release party with Nylon Magazine for New York Fashion Week.
Paris Hilton invited Megan Thee Stallion for a performance at Hilton’s album release party with Nylon Magazine for New York Fashion Week. Roy Rochlin/Getty Images for NYLON
 

Crisp whites were on show (after Labor Day) at Ralph Lauren, with new takes on equestrian-influenced styles and northeast coastal codes.
Crisp whites were on show (after Labor Day) at Ralph Lauren, with new takes on equestrian-influenced styles and northeast coastal codes. Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
 

Willy Chavarria included a range of branded garments and his own spin on a neighborhood grocer’s logo.
Willy Chavarria included a range of branded garments and his own spin on a neighborhood grocer’s logo. Nina Westervelt/WWD/Getty Images
 

The designer showed two full collections on the runway, with the second being an Adidas collaboration.
The designer showed two full collections on the runway, with the second being an Adidas collaboration. Nina Westervelt/WWD/Getty Images
 

Models line up backstage at Willy Chavarria in wide, belted pants, starched tailoring and a bunch of dangling keys as accessories.
Models line up backstage at Willy Chavarria in wide, belted pants, starched tailoring and a bunch of dangling keys as accessories. Nina Westervelt/WWD/Getty Images
 

Area played with markers of identity, uniformity and rebellion in the collection, repeating hand motifs throughout the collection.
Area played with markers of identity, uniformity and rebellion in the collection, repeating hand motifs throughout the collection. Dan Lecca/Courtesy of AREA
 

This look, too, featured hands — with thousands of layered cutouts used to form a sculptural couture dress.
This look, too, featured hands — with thousands of layered cutouts used to form a sculptural couture dress. Dan Lecca/Courtesy of AREA
 
 
Fashion is going through a very tough time — there’s a lot of young designers especially struggling. To be able to exist already is an honor — that we even made it to these 10 years. All these challenges that we deal with (in a show), that’s peanuts. Piotrek Panszczyk, AREA

 

This season was Nanushka's 20th anniversary as a brand.
This season was Nanushka's 20th anniversary as a brand. Jonas Gustavsson
 
 
The label's history was chronicled in a series of recycled paper images and notes that dangled above the runway from the ceiling.
The label's history was chronicled in a series of recycled paper images and notes that dangled above the runway from the ceiling. Jonas Gustavsson
 


Model Precious Lee in an organza slip dress with a black drip motif. Gurung’s celebratory collection also had ties to the Hindu festival of Holi.
Model Precious Lee in an organza slip dress with a black drip motif. Gurung’s celebratory collection also had ties to the Hindu festival of Holi. David Dee Delgado/AFP/Getty Images
 


Gurung’s silk chiffon neck scarves trailed behind the models for a touch of airy elegance.
Gurung’s silk chiffon neck scarves trailed behind the models for a touch of airy elegance. David Dee Delgado/AFP/Getty Images
 

A powder blue sherwani-style jacket and mini dress made of multi-colored mylar strips.
A powder blue sherwani-style jacket and mini dress made of multi-colored mylar strips. David Dee Delgado/AFP/Getty Images
 

Pink appeared throughout the collection as a nod to Holi, from this draped look to a finale where models released pink powder in the wind.
Pink appeared throughout the collection as a nod to Holi, from this draped look to a finale where models released pink powder in the wind. David Dee Delgado/AFP/Getty Images
 
 
As a designer, as a creative person, I’m a storyteller, and storytellers are healers. And I think in this particular moment, those shared stories of different experiences are so crucial. Prabal Gurung
 
 
Brandon Maxwell worked with a new “stripped-down” approach to “American ease” this season, per the show notes.
Brandon Maxwell worked with a new “stripped-down” approach to “American ease” this season, per the show notes. Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images
 



The designer mades twists on classic summery styles, playing with opacity and dropped waists.
The designer mades twists on classic summery styles, playing with opacity and dropped waists. Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images
 


A multi-colored sequinned gown in Sergio Hudson’s 1960s-influenced collection.
A multi-colored sequinned gown in Sergio Hudson’s 1960s-influenced collection. Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images
 



Grace Ling has made breastplates for Jennifer Lopez and Radhika Merchant; her opening look for her sophomore show featured a draped gown with deconstructed metal armor worn by model Alex Consani.
Grace Ling has made breastplates for Jennifer Lopez and Radhika Merchant; her opening look for her sophomore show featured a draped gown with deconstructed metal armor worn by model Alex Consani. Courtesy of Grace Ling
 


Ling has developed a signature brand of dark fantasy with surrealist, sculptural metalworking. Her finale was a whirlwind of thorny branches and birds.
Ling has developed a signature brand of dark fantasy with surrealist, sculptural metalworking. Her finale was a whirlwind of thorny branches and birds. 
Courtesy of Grace Ling

 

 

This collection is titled ‘Neanderthal,’ and I wanted to capture primitive chic in a very modern, elegant way. Grace Ling

 

 

The architectural detailing of cathedrals repeated throughout Who Decides War’s latest collection.
The architectural detailing of cathedrals repeated throughout Who Decides War’s latest collection. Victor Pagan/Getty Images

 

 
Who Decides War creative directors Ev Bravado and Téla D'Amore featured an explosion of textures and unconventional silhouettes, including a multi-tiered streetwear take on bridal gowns.
Who Decides War creative directors Ev Bravado and Téla D'Amore featured an explosion of textures and unconventional silhouettes, including a multi-tiered streetwear take on bridal gowns. Victor Pagan/Getty Images
 

A model walks the runway for the Off-White fashion show during New York Fashion Week on September 8, 2024 in New York City.
A model walks the runway for the Off-White fashion show during New York Fashion Week on September 8, 2024 in New York City. JP Yim/Getty Images
 



The latest Off-White collection was inspired by Kamara visiting Ghana, where his predecessor Virgil Abloh was from.
The latest Off-White collection was inspired by Kamara visiting Ghana, where his predecessor Virgil Abloh was from. JP Yim/Getty Images
 



In the show notes, Kamara — who is from Sierra Leone — recalls growing up feeling like New York was 'a dreamland of utopias made real.'
In the show notes, Kamara — who is from Sierra Leone — recalls growing up feeling like New York was "a dreamland of utopias made real." JP Yim/Getty Images
 



Jason Wu collaborated with the famed artist Tong Yang-Tze, featuring her sweeping Chinese calligraphy in an ethereal collection.
Jason Wu collaborated with the famed artist Tong Yang-Tze, featuring her sweeping Chinese calligraphy in an ethereal collection. Arturo Holmes/Getty Images
 


Tommy Hilfiger’s latest collection was a new take on nautical prep, with oversized and slouchy silhouettes.
Tommy Hilfiger’s latest collection was a new take on nautical prep, with oversized and slouchy silhouettes. Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Getty Images
 



Models wove around the floor of a decommissioned Staten Island Ferry permanently docked at the South Street Seaport.
Models wove around the floor of a decommissioned Staten Island Ferry permanently docked at the South Street Seaport. Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Getty Images
 
 
It’s important for us to keep in touch with consumers… Sometimes we’re designing collections thinking what they might need next before they know it. Tommy Hilfiger
 
 
This season, Sandy Liang was inspired by spy girls, secret agents and princesses — and built her collection accordingly with playfully cropped trench coats and satin '60s-style dresses.
This season, Sandy Liang was inspired by spy girls, secret agents and princesses — and built her collection accordingly with playfully cropped trench coats and satin '60s-style dresses. Filippo Fior/Sandy Liang
 


From prom queen sashes to '80s puff-sleeved silhouettes, the brand's mission was to unite style and substance: 'Practicality can be fantastic and fantasy can be practical,' read the show notes.
From prom queen sashes to '80s puff-sleeved silhouettes, the brand's mission was to unite style and substance: "Practicality can be fantastic and fantasy can be practical," read the show notes. 
Filippo Fior/Sandy Liang
 

Author: Jacqui Palumbo, CNN

Source: CNN:::

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