Vidostream | News, sport and opinion from the Vidostream's US Edition

https://vidostream.com

Tehran is coming back to life, but its residents are deeply shaken

In the heart of the Iranian capital, the Boof cafe serves up refreshing cold drinks on a hot summer's day.

They must be the most distinctive iced Americano coffees in this city – the cafe sits in a leafy corner of the long-shuttered US embassy. 

Its high cement walls have been plastered with anti-American murals ever since Washington severed relations with Tehran in the wake of the 1979 Iranian revolution and the hostage crisis – which still cast a long shadow over this tortuous relationship.

Inside the charming Boof cafe, Amir the barista says he'd like relations to improve between America and Iran.

"US sanctions hurt our businesses and make it hard for us to travel around the world," he reflects as he pours another iced coffee behind a jaunty wooden sign - "Keep calm and drink coffee."

Only two tables are occupied - one by a woman covered up in a long black veil, another by a woman in blue jeans with long flowing hair, flouting the rules on what women should wear as she cuddles with her boyfriend.

It's a small snapshot of this capital as it confronts its deeply uncertain future.

 

Charlotte Scarr/BBC An Iranian man standing behind a counter in a shop
Charlotte Scarr/BBC  Amir, the barista at Boof cafe, says he wants relations between US and Iran to improve
 

"I am scared they might attack again, " Ashraf Barghi tells me when we meet in the emergency department of the Taleghani General hospital where she works as head nurse.

"We don't trust this war has ended" she says, in a remark reflecting the palpable worry we've heard from so many people in this city.

When Israel bombed the threshold of the nearby Evin prison on 23 June, the casualties, both soldiers and civilians, were rushed into Nurse Barghi's emergency ward.

"The injuries were the worst I've treated in my 32 years as nurse," she recounts, still visibly distressed.

The strike on the notorious prison where Iran detains most of its political prisoners was described by Israel as "symbolic". 

It seemed to reinforce Israeli Prime Minister Netanyahu's repeated message to Iranians to "stand up for their freedom".

"Israel says it only hit military and nuclear prison but it's all lies," insists Morteza from his hospital bed. He had been at work in the prison's transport department when the missile slammed into the building. He shows us his injuries in both arms and his backside.

In the ward next door, soldiers are being cared for, but we're not allowed to enter there.

 

Charlotte Scarr/BBC A female nurse sitting at a desk in Tehran
Charlotte Scarr/BBC  Nurse Ashraf Barghi fears that Israel will attack Iran again
 
 

Across this sprawling metropolis, Iranians are counting the cost of this confrontation. In its latest tally, the government's health ministry recorded 627 people killed and nearly 5,000 injured.

Tehran is slowly returning to life and resuming its old rhythms, at least on the surface. Its infamous traffic is starting to fill its soaring highways and pretty tree-lined side streets.

Shops in its beautiful bazaars are opening again as people return to a city they fled to escape the bombs. Israel's intense 12-day military operation, coupled with the US's attacks on Iran's main nuclear sites, has le so many shaken.

"They weren't good days, " says Mina, a young woman who immediately breaks down as she tries to explain her sadness. "It's so heart-breaking, " she tells me through her tears. "We tried so hard to have a better life but we can't see any future these days."

We met on the grounds of the soaring white marble Azadi tower, one of Tehran's most iconic landmarks. A large crowd milling on a warm summer's evening swayed to the strains of much-loved patriotic songs in an open air concert of the Tehran Symphony Orchestra. It was meant to bring some calm to a city still on edge.

AFP A man with a mask over his nose and mouth and gloves on his hands sits on the pavement holding a broom while he takes a break from clearing debris, while behind him stands a blown-out green taxi with shattered windows and dents in its side, and other vehicles behind it lining the street. Taken in Tehran on Thursday.
AFP Residents of Tehran have been assessing damage and clearing debris following Tuesday's ceasefire announcement

 

Supporters and critics of Iran's clerical rulers mingled, drawn together by shared worry about their country's future.

"They have to hear what people say," insists Ali Reza when I ask him what advice he would give to his government. "We want greater freedoms, that's all I will say."

There's defiance too. "Attacking our nuclear bases to show off that 'you have to do as we say' goes against diplomacy," says Hamed, an 18-year-old university student. 

Despite rules and restrictions which have long governed their lives, Iranians do speak their minds as they wait for the next steps by their rulers, and leaders in Washington and beyond, which carry such consequences for their lives.

Additional reporting by Charlotte Scarr and Nik Millard.

Lyse Doucet is being allowed to report in Iran on condition that none of her reports are used on the BBC's Persian service. This law from Iranian authorities applies to all international media agencies operating in Iran.

Author: Lyse Doucet Chief international correspondent Reporting fromTehran, Iran

Source: BBC News:

We are using cookies to give you the best experience on our website. By continuing to browse, you are agreeing to our Cookie Policy.
You did not use the site, Click here to remain logged. Timeout: 60 second